|
|
Post by chuckieduck on Feb 18, 2009 20:42:37 GMT -8
Hello guys. I am getting ready to restore my new Trekker. The frame is shot. It's still seems solid, but it has sections that are peeling off in pieces. The cab has a rust spot in the cowl under the windshield. Part of the floorpans have been repaired in the past. There is some cancer in the lower drivers side cab corner. Both fender have rust that's not worth fixing. I just hope that the replacement feners I have found are correct. The bed is in almost perfect shape except for a small crack on the drivers side wheelwell. The top needs alot of repair. The corners where the back gate attaches is all cracked up and you can move the top side to side at that section. The hinges aren't the correct kind and the glass needs to be replaced. On the positive side, the truck is straight. The doors shut perfect with just a couple small cancer spots which I think can be repaired easily. The windows roll down kinda hard, but that's ok because I found new regulators for $15 each. The seats are in great shape. The motor starts up great and runs great. I belive it is the original motor and has never been rebuilt. My plan is to restore it as close to stock as possible. It has extended shackles on it, but I don't think it provides more than an inch of lift. The chrome rims I would like to send off and have them re-chromed. So I plan on trying to find some stock springs to replace the rusted ones on the truck. I found a frame that has been blasted and painted. The only thing about the frame is that the front shock mounts have already been cut off for shock hoops. But after looking a the hoops Slacker has put on his project I think it will still fit the stock truck well. I also found a cab that I am getting too just incase I need sheet metal for mine. The picture with the cab is the cab only.   |
|
|
|
Post by chuckieduck on Feb 18, 2009 20:47:26 GMT -8
|
|
|
|
Post by b4runner on Feb 19, 2009 1:12:23 GMT -8
It's got some potential. Looking forward to seeing the progress on your restoration.
For the upper shock mounts the hoops like Slacker and I used are available from different vendors like Trail-Gear. An Alternative to using shock hoops that is about $20 cheaper is to get some Ford shock towers (I think f-150's) They run about $15 each at the ford dealership. I found out about that after I ordered my shock hoops.
|
|
|
|
Post by foonanas on Feb 19, 2009 5:08:39 GMT -8
did you pick that thing up from Rob?
|
|
|
|
Post by chuckieduck on Feb 19, 2009 5:45:53 GMT -8
foonasas-I am buying it from Rob. I guess your his cousin. Rob's a pretty cool guy. He's working with me to purchase it. I should pick it up in the next two weeks. As far as the shock hoops. I found these from www.datinfab.com for $49.95. After reading slackers posts about the body hitting the hoops I figured the kit would work out better so I can make adjustments to the length of the hoop if I need to.  |
|
|
|
Post by Slacker on Feb 19, 2009 7:20:49 GMT -8
very cool .. looking forward to another build ;D
|
|
|
|
Post by chuckieduck on Feb 19, 2009 10:02:45 GMT -8
Slacker, I hope you are because I am going to be using you for alot of info. Hope you don't mind. Parts too.
|
|
|
|
Post by Slacker on Feb 19, 2009 16:23:27 GMT -8
not just me ... ALL these Trekker owners are a welth of knowledge .
I know ... you'll ask , and we will answer .
|
|
|
|
Post by chuckieduck on Feb 19, 2009 17:16:05 GMT -8
I called around today and found new in box Toyota fenders. They are still available through Toyota. They are kinda expensive. $267.00 each. The guy assured me that they are original Toyota parts. I find that hard to believe. I might order the passenger side on since mine is rusted so bad to check it out before I order the other side.
I wish I had another Toyota truck that I could try out Slacker's fiberglass fenders and new Trekker rear on.
|
|
|
|
Post by Slacker on Feb 19, 2009 18:23:18 GMT -8
huh ? i'm confused  Trekker rears are ALL fiberglass .. not steel . if it is steel it is not a Trekker . the one pictured does NOT have steel sides .. . |
|
|
|
Post by chuckieduck on Feb 19, 2009 18:43:09 GMT -8
My front fenders are steel. My rear is fiberglass.
What I would like to do is find a regular pickup, install your fiberglass front fenders and your Trekker style rear section that you are talking about building so I mod it with a lift and tires. I don't want to molest my stock Trekker. Sorry about the cunfusion.
|
|
|
|
Post by b4runner on Feb 19, 2009 20:24:55 GMT -8
As far as the shock hoops. I found these from www.datinfab.com for $49.95. After reading slackers posts about the body hitting the hoops I figured the kit would work out better so I can make adjustments to the length of the hoop if I need to. the trail-gear hoops I used came more prewelded than the datinfab kit. The upper shock mount and frame tubes were already welded to the main loop. same price, S49.95. I think they sent Corey the 14" hoops instead of the 12" hoops and that is where he ran into the fender clearance issues.  |
|
|
|
Post by Slacker on Feb 20, 2009 16:45:59 GMT -8
mine are absolutly the 12" hoops .. whats happening with mine is the shock brackets are/were touching the inner apron ..even now with the 1" body lift I did , the brackets are so close , I think they might cause a rattle .. maybe , maybe not .. but I am going to modify it slightly when I remove the cab for the paint anyway .  so I think the datinfab are your best buy ... that way .. you can position them as you see fit . If I had my own bender I would have made my own . . |
|
|
|
Post by chuckieduck on Feb 20, 2009 18:26:59 GMT -8
Slacker, That's why I love your build so much. I hate it for you that you have to work around problems like the shock hoop thing, but it's a lessons learned thing for me. I think the weld my own kit is perfect. Even if I have to cut of any length to fit without hitting, it should effect the shock any since I am leaving the truck at stock height.
Has anyone had any experience with re-chroming? I really like the wheels on the truck and would like to keep them. I could have them blasted and powder coated, but I just don't think they would look as good.
|
|
|
|
Post by Slacker on Feb 20, 2009 20:10:13 GMT -8
yep .. lessen learned !!
re-chroming is always an issue ... but a good re-chromer is a buddy for sure !
first off .. you need direction ... you have this listed as you want to build as stock as you suggested ! perfect .. (project course direction secured )
second you really need to set yourself a budget for this build ..
and 3rd .. you need a time line ..
this is not set in stone .. as all projects ~very .. but it will give you some direction !
.
|
|
