ok so a little bit more today .. thank hevens , a weekend is comming , but I really want to get the engine secured and up off of the floor .
so .. yanked it off again , and started to work on cutting the stock mounts off .
and finally both sides cut off .
started to "open up" the motor mount side , mounts a bit .. as i'm using the original top side of the frame mounts . They are just a "hair" off , so they need to be enlarged .
and finally (for today) I decided to put on the front clip , and strip it , so I will be able to check for clearances ..
so far .. firewall looks good .. I dont even think I will have any "modifications" .. but , I duno just yet , just acording to my measurements "knock on wood" one thing I did notice though .. I think the engine is going to sit up very high .. like 5" or so .. not shure yet what i think about that ?
ok .. so took a " step back" today , and had a look at "things"
remove a bunch of "extra accessories" I wont be using ..
I went over to a buddies place , and had a look at his /83 .. and did some measuring (I dont have a complete truck)
I found basically the engines are the same length , but the 3.4 is wider , and taller .
so I did some more "mocking up" and I think I have it now ..
so with the crossover on the passenger side .. it actually hits the frame .. it also would interfere with the slave cylinder , and clutch fork , so It MUST be modified .
using the crossover pipe means , I cant use a rad . ORS wants $370.00 + a core charge on the flanges for a crossover pipe .. Downey wants $395.00 for a set of chrome headers .
I have a feeling I'm going with the Downey headers .
ok ... so .. now with the crossover removed and the a/c compresser .. I can now get the engine where it should be , or where I want it . >>> the stick indicates the firewall <<<
>>> the stick indicates the hood line <<<
and finally .... fan and rad ..
I still have a bit of room at the back , so I will move it back a little further ..
I think I will be using the original upper mounts , and build some lowers .. not sure on the isolator yet ..
also at this height .. there seems to be lots of clearance on the oil pan .. I'm using the stock "push/pull steering" .. but if I were to go to crossover , I would need to change out the oil pan for sure ..
Looking at that I would probably go with the t100 oil pan (heard you get more clearance) and eliminate the front Panhard bar and mounts. Maybe going with dual electric fans would help the clearance with the fan clutch.
But since you are the fiberglass guru what about extending the front fenders 4-5"?
The think the downey headers are gonna be the way to go but I am guessing you are still gonna have some floor pan work with the trannie...
actually , oil pan looks good to me .. If I were to go with cross over steering , I would need to change the o/p .. but because i'm sticking with the stock push/pull .. I wont have to .. see it's all a "money game " , do this do that .. I dont see the point .
as far a the front fan blade .. in the pic .. I'm 1" away from the rad .. stock is ~ 2" .. I really think I can move the engine back an inch , since I have decided on the headers .. so again .. I dont think I will need electric fans .
measured trannies , and basically the same .. so again .. I dont think it'll be a problem .. holes should line up just great ..
it looks like i'm going to be building my own headers for the 3.4L swap .
I can't find any applications that will clear the 95 MTM clutch fork .. ORS is not to forgoing with such info , and I know the Downey headers would need modfiing .. so hell !! .. I'll just build my own ! ..
trial and error .. yup , I'll have er' all figured .
first thing is , a TOTAL re think .
I'm now going to eliminate the original fan blade and coupler .
reason is . Tranny/transfer shifter positions .. as well as exhaust , and fit of the engine .
because of the curve of the frame , at the front , If I push the engine a few inches forward , I can actually lower it an inch .. This will also allow for the tranny shifters to come up in "almost" the stock location (nice) , also .. I will be able to use the cross over (re-welded) and factory O2's ..
I need some "pusher" fans , because of the elimination of the stock fan .. but I think I have this worked out as well ...
started with the front ... hung the original 95 shaft , and no way . CV would not bend enough . So I decided to compare .
angles are WAY different for some reason ? and not sure whay Toyota would change this . The 95 -> has a lip on the inner CV ball that restricts any "extreme" angle .. so /95 shaft it is not going to work .
you can clearly see the differance . (not sure on the 84-88 shaft , dont have one)
so now to line things up . front flange works (of course , diff side) but the rear (transfer side) has the 10MM studs .. with just a few measurements , I found you could knock out the flange studs . and using the 79-83 8MM drive shaft bolts , it'll line up . I was worried about the differance in the 10mm original , and the 8mm 79-83 .. but if you look at the flange/flange , there should be no movement .
so .. now FRONT DRIVE SHAFT ON . , I may have to lengthen , not sure yet .. but it's on
rear was not so difficult .. just had to drill the flange . set it up , and drilled .