|
Post by b4runner on Feb 4, 2008 19:51:43 GMT -8
UPS just dropped off my aussie locker this afternoon aussielocker.com/ Very reasonably priced. Called a lunch box locker, supposed to be a decent, well behaved on both street and trail. I hope to have it in as soon as I get my garage back (filled with stuff for the basement project right now)
|
|
|
Post by msrwerks on Feb 5, 2008 3:42:06 GMT -8
thanks robb! i have read the reviews and this is what i was looking for. i will be getting one for the front and the rear
|
|
|
Post by b4runner on Feb 5, 2008 9:53:08 GMT -8
Michael: Glad to help. I should have ordered both of them at the same time. Very good customer service and fast delivery (probably less than a week). The included instructions are pretty good, just generic, has chevy info in there too. When I put it in i think that I may hit this website for some hints: gearinstalls.com/
|
|
|
Post by msrwerks on Feb 5, 2008 10:01:16 GMT -8
i have been reading through that guys installs off and on most of the morning he really seems like he knows his stuff and is pretty funny to boot!
|
|
|
Post by b4runner on Feb 5, 2008 16:51:52 GMT -8
yeah he is pretty good...which he was local so I could have him do my gears. There is a guy on yotatech a few miles from me that I might talk to about it...
|
|
|
Post by msrwerks on Feb 5, 2008 16:57:17 GMT -8
|
|
|
Post by b4runner on Feb 6, 2008 6:30:16 GMT -8
That is some cool packaging. I like how ZUK scribes dates etc on the work he does, leave out some mystery surprises for folks down the road. I think I am just gonna throw the locker in the rear to avoid any interesting driving situations with only the front locked up.
How is your frame coming along? Ready to set anything on it yet?
|
|
|
Post by msrwerks on Feb 6, 2008 8:43:53 GMT -8
after this weekend i should be ready to set the trekker on the frame. the plan this weekend is to put the 2" body lift under the cab and cut the back of the cab out as well. i have run into something i am not sure about though and hope corey can answer... the long bed frame has 8 mounting points for the bed to the frame. the trekker only seems to have 6. i have measured it out and the trekker is missing the mounts right behind the cab. the 6 mounts it does have look like they line up right to the mounts on my frame. that seems like a large span of unsupported fiberglass to me. especially considering it will have to support weight of people semi standing to get in and out of the doors. what i will probably end up doing is making that area's own sub frame using the existing frame mounts just for piece of mind. i dont want my foot going through it when i step up into it also... maybe one of you guys with a trekker can help me with this... when i cut the back of the cab out, do i leave the lip running across the roof? as in cut just under it? these 2 pictures were a big help robb, but i can not make out if that roof lip is still there or not.
|
|
|
Post by b4runner on Feb 6, 2008 9:08:49 GMT -8
Stole this one from one of Corey's posts, it looks like you make the cut just below the drip rail: The sealer makes it kind of hard to see though. maybe Corey has a cleaned up closed up of this cut ;D... Adding the additional subframe across the front sounds like a good idea, though the fiberglass should IMO also be supported by the floor of the cab. With the foot area being slightly lower than the bed floor I think you might have to tweak the stock body mounts towards the front of the bed/rear of the cab. I know Corey is the Master with the right know how on this one though...When I had all the springs and junk in the back of mine taking it over to get work on it I kind of forget it was fiberglass and was throwing the junk in like a regular truck. Then thought oh oh, checked it out and that stuff is surprising stout stuff.
|
|
|
Post by msrwerks on Feb 6, 2008 9:16:33 GMT -8
hi robb, i have that picture as well. i was guessing that the lip is still there, just trimmed on each side to allow the top to go through it. just wanted to make sure before i start cutting
|
|
|
Post by Slacker on Feb 6, 2008 17:25:25 GMT -8
Michael yes .. just the outer edges of the drip rails are cut off .. heres a pic .. hopefully that works .. I think your best bet is to get the back 1/2 up there , and move it "in and out" to see where exactly you have to cut .. that is what I did when i cut out the parts truck . also Michael ... the trekker dosnt have the front mounts "like the box" .. thats what the sub frame kinda does .. you dont want to "hard mount it" you want it to flex with the cab .. or you'll have leaks . once you get the floor mounted down , you'll have no problems getting in and out .
|
|
|
Post by msrwerks on Feb 9, 2008 17:12:22 GMT -8
ok. got to work some today ready for the knife! i hope this is the last of the rust but i am kind of doubting it since i am sure this was caused by the windshield seal leaking. i can see rust under areas of the windshield seal... have to start the sawzall somewhere! those greenlee punches are cool time to have some fun!! one step closer! ok corey... multiple choice time... how are the mounts suppose to go for the trekker? ABor CNone of the above.
|
|
|
Post by Slacker on Feb 9, 2008 17:24:49 GMT -8
ehhhhh!!! none of the above . ;D 1. the main rubber mount , will sit directly on the frame . 2. body lift block on top . 3. then metal spacer 4. silencer pad 5. Trekker body lookin' awesome Michael . to late to turn back now .
|
|
|
Post by msrwerks on Feb 9, 2008 17:32:38 GMT -8
thanks corey! how tight do i tighten them? also any idea where i can get a 7.5 inch long bolt? (actually 6 of them )
|
|
|
Post by Slacker on Feb 9, 2008 17:46:51 GMT -8
with a lock washer .. ~ 40 ft lbs .
I thought you had the bolts already ?
|
|