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Post by msrwerks on Feb 9, 2008 17:49:06 GMT -8
i do have the bolts that came with the 2" lift i bought, but there is an additional 3" the bolt has to go through with the trekker frame from what i can tell?
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Post by msrwerks on Feb 9, 2008 17:53:32 GMT -8
doesnt the bolt need to go through both of the 1.5" square frame pieces of the trekker frame?
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Post by Slacker on Feb 9, 2008 18:24:10 GMT -8
YES !
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Post by msrwerks on Feb 9, 2008 19:07:25 GMT -8
i did not know to take that into account when i ordered the hardware set with the body lift. just ordered 7" long grade 8 bolts for it
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Post by msrwerks on Feb 10, 2008 19:33:11 GMT -8
found a deal on the transmission and transfer case i need for the 4.3L conversion. $50! i also bought a 1988 SR5 4runner who's body has seen much better days, but the interior is complete and will be donating the front seats, center console with rear heat, gauge cluster and the rear split seat (maybe, i know i will have to modify it to get it to work) no pics yet. i pick it up next weekend
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Post by b4runner on Feb 10, 2008 21:08:55 GMT -8
Good deal on the trannie..that is one long piece of equipment ;D ..4.3 will move the Trekker right along.. Let me know about the 4Runner rear seats, that is something I was wondering about..the 2" foam on plywood just isn't that comfortable for my kids on a long trip..
Your Driver's rust in about the same spot I found mine from the leaky windshield too...
Very nice job on cutting out the back of the cab
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Post by msrwerks on Feb 14, 2008 17:30:10 GMT -8
ok corey... is this the right sequence for the mounts?
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Post by Slacker on Feb 15, 2008 7:28:49 GMT -8
Thats is it Michael ... now , the main "puck" sits directly on the truck frame , and the frame I built for the trekker sits on the top ..
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Post by msrwerks on Feb 15, 2008 8:28:03 GMT -8
so i need to just flip the puck over and everything else stays in place?
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Post by Slacker on Feb 15, 2008 16:58:22 GMT -8
no .. no .. .. that pic is exactly how the "mount" is ..
stock frame on the bottom .... frame I built , on top . mount inbetween .
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Post by msrwerks on Feb 18, 2008 4:02:22 GMT -8
got the 1986 sr5 4runner home and stripped the interior out. even going to use the steering column out of it for the tilt wheel and the cruise control stalk. it had the rear heat under the center console, so i took that out too. i was looking at the fuel tank corey... it seems to have a dip built in it for the rear seat. if it is still good, can i use the 4runner fuel tank and eliminate dropping the factory truck tank the 2 - 4 inches normally needed for the trekker conversion? i almost felt bad before i started dismantling the 4runner. the body is straight except for the hood and needing a grill. the paint even seems to be in really good shape. no rust anywhere. even the frame looked good from what i could tell removing the rear heater. i guess in my previous post about the body seeing better days i was thinking about the one that was right next to it that was for sale too. as for the 4runner rear split seats fitting in the trekker... the width will have to be shortened (taken out of the middle of each seat), but i am pretty sure i can use everything from the 4runner to get them to work. the seat bottoms flip forward against the backs of the front seats then the backs of the rear seats fold down flush with the bed in the 4runner. is this how the original trekker rear seat worked as well? (the rear seat bottom flipping up against the backs of the front seats) pictures of the loot to come!
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Post by Slacker on Feb 18, 2008 16:21:52 GMT -8
I'm pretty sure the 4runner fuel tank will not fit .. not unless you do some "custom" mounts .. but i'm not positive on this .
on the original rear seat .. I believe you remove the bottom , and fold down the back , to lay it flat . It's kinda mickey mouse .. but thats the way it was .
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Post by msrwerks on Feb 18, 2008 19:12:30 GMT -8
thanks for the info corey! i will drop the tank out of the 4runner and take a look to see if i can use it and let you know. some more progress (if you can call finding this that. it is more like 5 steps backwards!) removed the brake booster, the clutch master cylinder, parking brake and the steering wheel support. also drivers side of the wiring harness. pulled the sound deadening stuff and found this nice surprise waiting for me fortunately it is just on the surface and not rusted through anywhere. (it looks much worse then it is) but i was really scratching my head as to why the sound deadening stuff was getting wet. the windshield seal really did not look like it was leaking in this area. (see the dirt all along under the windshield seal ) looking a little closer revealed the secret... on the other side of the firewall... the water came in from between the hood and the area in front of the front windshield and into the gash soaking the sound deadening material. by the looks of it, that stuff does not dry out too fast. why someone put that gash in there is beyond me. so... time to order another can of Por15 and stop at home depot for another wire brush attachment for the angle grinder.
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Post by Slacker on Feb 18, 2008 19:57:07 GMT -8
wow ... i'm speachless .
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Post by msrwerks on Feb 19, 2008 4:32:42 GMT -8
wow ... i'm speachless . yeah, me too. it is really strange that it is even in the pattern of the sound deadening material! i guess when the stuff was saturated it loaded up the passenger side floor and caused the rust over there. the drivers side is rust free!
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