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Post by 83trekker on Feb 14, 2011 19:10:36 GMT -8
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Post by 83trekker on Feb 14, 2011 19:54:24 GMT -8
factory sealant was just " dumb dumb" remained flexable and "gooey" for life .. I know when I have ever taken any Trekkers apart it was usually a tough job . but that is 30 year old technology , and not real positive its avaliable anymore . I'm using a newer product on mine sikaflex .. it's real good stuff , and much like the original , will not harden , but stay flexable and waterproof . You know what mine had a outter foam/seal of some sort that actually went over the gooey stuff, i cant remember if i threw it away of if it was no good, that was 12 years ago or so..
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Post by 83trekker on Feb 14, 2011 19:57:12 GMT -8
Is this what you used? Attachments:
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Post by nwtrekker on Feb 15, 2011 11:14:59 GMT -8
You know what mine had a outter foam/seal of some sort that actually went over the gooey stuff, i cant remember if i threw it away of if it was no good, that was 12 years ago or so.. I just resealed my back half and i used 3m window-weld ribbon sealer part no.08612, im pretty sure this stuff does not harden. trekkerpaul has the outer foam seal your talking about. looks great and so far no leaks, at least from the main seal. i plan on starting a project thread and posting up some pics.
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Post by 83trekker on Feb 15, 2011 13:29:43 GMT -8
You know what mine had a outter foam/seal of some sort that actually went over the gooey stuff, i cant remember if i threw it away of if it was no good, that was 12 years ago or so.. I just resealed my back half and i used 3m window-weld ribbon sealer part no.08612, im pretty sure this stuff does not harden. trekkerpaul has the outer foam seal your talking about. looks great and so far no leaks, at least from the main seal. i plan on starting a project thread and posting up some pics. Please do, i like to to see some pics of yours.
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Post by Slacker on Feb 15, 2011 16:14:29 GMT -8
nope .. I'll get some info for you .. and I also will get a pic if the new D gasket I would recommend and am using on mine .. The foam is original , and great for a factory "correct" restoration but it is not water proof and I wouldnt use it .. but thats just my opinion .
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Post by 83trekker on Feb 15, 2011 17:15:59 GMT -8
nope .. I'll get some info for you .. and I also will get a pic if the new D gasket I would recommend and am using on mine .. The foam is original , and great for a factory "correct" restoration but it is not water proof and I wouldnt use it .. but thats just my opinion . I am not going for a 100% original for my Trekker, i would prefer to use what ever is going to keep the water out. Also whats the best way to clean out the mud from the floorboards, its a mixture of the orignal tar and mud and rust and bare clean metal, I need to get all that mud out.
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Post by Slacker on Feb 15, 2011 17:30:29 GMT -8
is it mud or the original sound deadner ?
the mud , well just sweep or vacuum that out .. the sound deadner will come out fiarly easly .. expecially in the weather .
is your garage heated ? if so , push your trekker out into the cold for the day .. then pull it in , and use a flat bar and hammer .. and "chip" it out .. it'll come out real easy when cold .. then I just use some acetone to clean up the floor
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Post by 83trekker on Feb 15, 2011 20:08:33 GMT -8
Should i take out all the old sound deadner?its nice clean metal under it.
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Post by Slacker on Feb 16, 2011 7:23:10 GMT -8
toyota floors are VERY well known to rust , mostly because of the mounts undernieth , an there proxcimity to the floor boards . Cracks and spots where the "deadner" has lifted allow moisture to seep in and sit , and example woulb be the rust holes under the gas pedal .. I replaced my floors , there were terrable in all 4 corners , most people have to at least do a patch . If your floors are good .. I would look after them .. The deadner is just 1 way . It very easy to do when its cold .. maybe take you an hour . but of course you will have to replace it with something !!
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Post by 83trekker on Feb 16, 2011 7:35:52 GMT -8
Well my floor pans were patched around 7 years ago and still good BUT last night trying to take out the seat belts that bolt to the side cab just to the side of the seats and the bolts are so rusted in, 1 got 1 out, 1 welded a bolt to it and got it out. The 2 bolts that go in the bottom of the cab sides that hold the seatbelt rollers are seized and the floor boards all around there are rotten. So will be patching some more in soon.
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Post by 83trekker on Feb 16, 2011 14:33:42 GMT -8
Im interested in what you are going to use for this too, as eaither way i am going to need some later down the road.
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Post by Slacker on Feb 16, 2011 18:22:46 GMT -8
[quote author=admin board=trekkerbuilds thread=649 post=5373 time=129781526 Which gasket are you using for yours Corey? The gasket I gave NWTREKKER is the factory upgraded piece that I was told to use by Safro. It is the same style as the original, but with new technology for making the gasket itself. The original was a 1/2 X 1/2 sealed pour "D" style gasket. The one I bought a roll of is 9/16 X 9/16 sealed pour "D" style gasket. It offers more area of coverage and I slightly higher spread to seal water from getting between the cab and the fiberglass. It, of course, is not the primary seal for the trekker body as there would have to be another, flexible sealer between the cab and the fiberglass back half to keep water out. The original gaskets are 30 years old too. The gasket material for the "D" style gasket is most likely meant to last around 10 years depending on conditions and weathering. The sealed pour "D" gasket I have is waterproof. They look like foam rubber now, but they didn't originally. I have a section of original 30 year old factory "D" gasket and it is as waterproof as the new roll I bought. I know you are planning to make your top removable, so I would like to see what you are planning to use on yours and how that differs from the Winnebago factory original piece. Maybe your style of gasket will give all of us another viable option for a better seal overall. maybe we should move the topic .. instead of "crowding" 83trekkers post .. but I beg to differ with you and safro on the "water proof" original factory seal .. it is not . it is constructed as a neoprene seal , and as any scuba diver knows , neoprene is not water proof . It is at best , a dust shield /gap filler . Gasket I have chosen for a replacement is a silicone baced medium based densidy hollow "D" gasket , with a 3M backing ACRYLIC tape (perfect for fiberglass adhesion) ... will not loose its shape , absorb any moisture , and should last for ever . much more money then the original/updated one , but , for the money i'm spending on my interior , I feel it's worth it . although , my roof will be removable .. I doubt I will ever have it off again .. .
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Post by 83trekker on Feb 18, 2011 9:33:11 GMT -8
Has anybody on here succesfully replaced the back side topper windows with anything else for a good price? All of the seals on mine are so rotted, i have so much moss growing , they leak so bad and i am missing one of the main pieces on the window that "should hold water out, but it doesnt. Let me know please.
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Post by Slacker on Feb 18, 2011 17:20:30 GMT -8
might want to post that in the "exterior" section , might get more responces ..
it's pretty common to "swap" the solid trekker windows in .. but we dont really have much of a choice up here in Canada .. I'm going to rebuild my sliders .. but you might want to have a new 1 piece glass cut and installed
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