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Post by 83trekker on Apr 27, 2015 7:30:00 GMT -8
Used Rust mort on the floor to clean it all up, this stuff works amazing. Attachments:
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Post by 83trekker on Apr 28, 2015 6:11:06 GMT -8
Got the front stripped off and zinced , got one side done then ran out of zinc, need to go get some more today. Getting a Samsung s6 end of the week, retiring my old black berry so picture quality will get better. Attachments:
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Post by 83trekker on Jun 1, 2015 6:07:52 GMT -8
Just waiting for some bezels for the head lights and can put togeather the top of the front of the truck. Got one side of the door hinges done Got the trekker frame cut out of the opening of the back of the cab.
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Post by 83trekker on Jun 1, 2015 6:12:15 GMT -8
Got a lot of wiring done, have a crap load going to the battery, all wiring connectors are soldered, heat shrinked The drivers side where the seat belt bolts to the inside of the cab is totally rusted out, this is where the bolt threads into the side wall, any ideas on how to fix this to be able to thread the seat belt bolt back into it? Glad I ripped the frame out or I wouldn't have know about this part. I got a lot of body work done, wiring done, some brake work done, found some parts I have been looking for, there is a light at the end of the tunnel now!
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Post by Slacker on Jun 1, 2015 16:54:00 GMT -8
lookin great Kev ... nice to see the progress ! I had the same problem with the seat belt with my trekker , I just cut out another piece in 14G , found a new nut , and welded it in
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Post by 83trekker on Jun 3, 2015 10:30:28 GMT -8
Can I paint the door arm with something that wont come off, since its vinyl? and will be touched a lot? I have an glossy black engine enamel in a spray bomb that I sprayed my plastic e fan shroud with and seemed to stick really good.
Also anybody know where to get the backing material for the door panels so I can make my own?
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Post by Slacker on Jun 3, 2015 16:35:23 GMT -8
I have used SEM products on many interiors , including my trekker .. works great . get the primer as well , and follow the directions , and you can dye the interior pieces . I think any upholstery shop has the backing .. but I can also help you out there , I can ship it with your new roof when I get it done . I'm making some panels for a 4Runner in my shop now , and again , I did the panels on my trekker . what I can do , is make you a flat sheet of fiberglass . it's way better then the cardboard you would normally buy . The fiberglass is more stout , and wont deteriorate , well not in our lifetime anyway , not much money either . i'll be posting up the panels in the next few day on the 4runner , and you can see how I built my " custom " panels in my build
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Post by 83trekker on Jun 3, 2015 20:24:45 GMT -8
Do you sell the roof template also? Like in your build.
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Post by Slacker on Jun 4, 2015 17:40:10 GMT -8
nope , that is a 1 off for now ...
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Post by 83trekker on Jun 8, 2015 6:09:11 GMT -8
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Post by 83trekker on Jun 11, 2015 6:36:49 GMT -8
Front is getting close to being done. the cab mount and floor are so bad, Corey do you sell cab mounts? This one is gone and not sure what to replace with, or do you know anybody that would sell one? I don't have the means to make one, have no bender or anything. When patching in floor pans do you butt up the new metal to the original floor , or should I overlap the new patch over existing floor and weld, carpet will cover it so it doesn’t matter what it looks like. What gauge of steel is used for floor above the mounts where it's thicker then the ref of the floor.
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Post by Slacker on Jun 11, 2015 16:42:14 GMT -8
looking good kev ... sorry no .. I don't sell the mounts . I build them as I need them . for the "shoe boxes" I use 14G . you need to make sure the inside rocker is string enough to hold the weld though ! . you don't need a bender to bend it either , a counter top and a piece of flatbar will work just fine , or even a 2X4 . I have done this many times , it just takes a little longer to set everything up .
I also used 14G for my floor ... typically you only need 20G though , and it's much easier to work with as well
keep at er'
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Post by 83trekker on Jun 11, 2015 17:51:04 GMT -8
Well the inside is not tool bad, there is one small bad spot but over all I'm quite suprised. I found some 16 gauge at a store close by.
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Post by 83trekker on Sept 25, 2015 5:56:22 GMT -8
Got new to me seat for the back, needs a really good cleaning but fits really good. Slacker is there ay way to just fill in the previous holes for the carriage bolts, mine are really sloppy and don't want to take the back shell off the bed. Is it possible to shred of fiberglass and make like a paste with the resin to fill these in, would that even work?
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Post by Slacker on Sept 25, 2015 17:49:38 GMT -8
Got new to me seat for the back, needs a really good cleaning but fits really good. View Attachmentnice !! Slacker is there ay way to just fill in the previous holes for the carriage bolts, mine are really sloppy and don't want to take the back shell off the bed. Is it possible to shred of fiberglass and make like a paste with the resin to fill these in, would that even work? View Attachmentwell there is a way , but normally I wouldn't recommend it because it'll probably crack around the original hole because of the bed sides and tub not being "connected" but , what I would do in this situation , is counter snk the edges of the hole with a countersink bit .. both top and bottom . then put a piece of masking tape over the bottom , and squirt some panel bonder 3M 08115 in to the hole .. should work like a rivet basically .
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