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Post by Slacker on Mar 26, 2015 15:06:15 GMT -8
Door pins I used were for a domestic , I bought them off a peg board turn style in Canadian tire . Came with the bushings as well , so I drilled the holes in the hinges so the bushings would fit . Obviously the pins are to long , so I cut them to fit , and then plug welded them to hold them in place .
The tail lamp pots are one of my pieces .. they are moulded from an original 79-83 style bed . I use them when I build a complete bed for a customer , or even the sides if they choose . so YES I do have them , and yes , you just drill the holes for the lamps , install your lamps on the pockets in the bed , tape the lamps into place , and glass the pockets into place . They run $35.00 ea.
glad my build is helping you , and I'm glad to help as well .
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Post by 83trekker on Apr 10, 2015 10:48:08 GMT -8
so one side done .. on install , Tony was pulling so hard he ripped the seam , so .. he had to take it back to his shop and sew it back up ... heres what the one side looks like anyway . Did you make those side panels where the seat belt bolts up to?
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Post by Slacker on Apr 10, 2015 17:39:12 GMT -8
for the rear belts ?
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Post by 83trekker on Apr 10, 2015 20:08:38 GMT -8
No front seat belts ,they look plastic in your pick with the hole on the top where you would bolt the seat belt to, right behind where the drivers seat would be, mines fabric and every one ive seen i would love a couple of those unless there custom built
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Post by 83trekker on Apr 11, 2015 14:05:09 GMT -8
so I was able to work a bit on the trekker last night .. and started cutting the rail off .. had to do this in sections , and tack it , so that the roof wouldnt "pop" off and with it fully removed and just about finished 1 side . When you removed the rail, did you just tac weld it or did you fully weld it after you cut it all off? Mines got a lot of rust in between the rail and cab and might be better to remove the rail to get rid of all the rust, but im not a good welder lol. What wire size did you use to weld it and what settings do you use on your welder for very thin body welding? Thanks once again! Also what brand is the zinc you use and when ever you have a chance can you post of pic of it? Thanks
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Post by Slacker on Apr 11, 2015 16:17:06 GMT -8
No front seat belts ,they look plastic in your pick with the hole on the top where you would bolt the seat belt to, right behind where the drivers seat would be, mines fabric and every one ive seen i would love a couple of those unless there custom built ohh .. those are from my original trekker .. SR5 trucks had them ..... I was going to make moulds when I had them out , as the plastics in out Toyotas are flimsy and weak , but alas , I didn't ...
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Post by Slacker on Apr 11, 2015 16:32:14 GMT -8
when I cut the drip rails off ... it's just as pictured - a little at a time , and tack it down so the roof dosnt "pop" off . I fully welded it . The welder I used was a miller 180 with .030 wire and gas . I don't exactly remember the settings , but I believe it was heat = 2 wire speed = 2 ... you have to do it VERY slow , tack at about 4 inches apart , and work from one tack to the next , spreading the heat out so your not warping the metal
the zinc is pretty common , but maybe your asking for the wrong thing ... try "self etching primer" ... I usually use pro form # PF654 any store that sells welding supplies will have it .
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Post by 83trekker on Apr 11, 2015 20:57:54 GMT -8
I didnt know the sr5 had those pieces wish I could find some.
Found some primer zinc at crappy tire on line.
Thanks
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Post by 83trekker on Apr 20, 2015 7:57:39 GMT -8
Corey when you cut the drip rail did you cut where the seam sealer is? ill try and explain my question the best I can, where the drip rails is almost like a L shape piece of metal. The bottom of the rail is attached to the inner part of the cab where there door seal sits. Did you leave this part attached and just cut the actual rail off that extends from the truck and body work the metal from there? Does this make sense what I am trying to ask? see the pic and where I am pointing to the iner cab part which is part of the rail metal, did you leave that still there? Attachments:
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Post by Slacker on Apr 20, 2015 17:19:19 GMT -8
no , I cut that out .. using a spot weld cutter . The drip rail is a "separate" part , spot welded to the body, This is where the rust starts in between the 2 metal pieces .
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Post by Slacker on Apr 20, 2015 17:21:08 GMT -8
I have some OE steel drip rails at my shop I'm using in the "cab construction" for our fiberglass cab replacement .. I'll take a pic of them if you want ? so you can see exactly what to cut out ....
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Post by 83trekker on Apr 20, 2015 17:26:40 GMT -8
no , I cut that out .. using a spot weld cutter . The drip rail is a "separate" part , spot welded to the body, This is where the rust starts in between the 2 metal pieces . yes please
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Post by Slacker on Apr 20, 2015 17:34:36 GMT -8
pics .. yes ?
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Post by 83trekker on Apr 20, 2015 18:07:32 GMT -8
yes if you could post a pic, just make it easy to see it, thanks
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Post by 83trekker on Apr 21, 2015 12:28:10 GMT -8
thanks bud .. the small vices are fairly inexpencive , it's the bigger ones that are costly . all excited , I went in this morn. to get the door mounted .. removed all the clamps , and connected up the door handle , bolted on the hinges .. and got the door back on Marked the position of the mirror , drilled and "nutcerted" and put the mirror back on] Why did you put rivets in the door for the mirror, was that so you could screw into them? I just picked up some mirrors like your but in black, oh man are they ever cheap feeling.
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