UPS just dropped off my aussie locker this afternoon aussielocker.com/ Very reasonably priced. Called a lunch box locker, supposed to be a decent, well behaved on both street and trail. I hope to have it in as soon as I get my garage back (filled with stuff for the basement project right now)
Michael: Glad to help. I should have ordered both of them at the same time. Very good customer service and fast delivery (probably less than a week). The included instructions are pretty good, just generic, has chevy info in there too.
When I put it in i think that I may hit this website for some hints: gearinstalls.com/
That is some cool packaging. I like how ZUK scribes dates etc on the work he does, leave out some mystery surprises for folks down the road. I think I am just gonna throw the locker in the rear to avoid any interesting driving situations with only the front locked up.
How is your frame coming along? Ready to set anything on it yet?
after this weekend i should be ready to set the trekker on the frame. the plan this weekend is to put the 2" body lift under the cab and cut the back of the cab out as well. i have run into something i am not sure about though and hope corey can answer... the long bed frame has 8 mounting points for the bed to the frame. the trekker only seems to have 6. i have measured it out and the trekker is missing the mounts right behind the cab. the 6 mounts it does have look like they line up right to the mounts on my frame. that seems like a large span of unsupported fiberglass to me. especially considering it will have to support weight of people semi standing to get in and out of the doors. what i will probably end up doing is making that area's own sub frame using the existing frame mounts just for piece of mind. i dont want my foot going through it when i step up into it
also... maybe one of you guys with a trekker can help me with this... when i cut the back of the cab out, do i leave the lip running across the roof? as in cut just under it? these 2 pictures were a big help robb, but i can not make out if that roof lip is still there or not.
Stole this one from one of Corey's posts, it looks like you make the cut just below the drip rail:
The sealer makes it kind of hard to see though. maybe Corey has a cleaned up closed up of this cut ;D...
Adding the additional subframe across the front sounds like a good idea, though the fiberglass should IMO also be supported by the floor of the cab. With the foot area being slightly lower than the bed floor I think you might have to tweak the stock body mounts towards the front of the bed/rear of the cab. I know Corey is the Master with the right know how on this one though...When I had all the springs and junk in the back of mine taking it over to get work on it I kind of forget it was fiberglass and was throwing the junk in like a regular truck. Then thought oh oh, checked it out and that stuff is surprising stout stuff.
Michael yes .. just the outer edges of the drip rails are cut off .. heres a pic .. hopefully that works ..
I think your best bet is to get the back 1/2 up there , and move it "in and out" to see where exactly you have to cut .. that is what I did when i cut out the parts truck .
also Michael ... the trekker dosnt have the front mounts "like the box" .. thats what the sub frame kinda does .. you dont want to "hard mount it" you want it to flex with the cab .. or you'll have leaks .
once you get the floor mounted down , you'll have no problems getting in and out .
TREKKER PARTS 86 "shop truck" lots of fiber parts . 84 2WD "hotrod" widebody 1GZ V12 83 Trekker custom , S/C 3.4L 82 Limited Edition MIRAGE # plated 001 of 500 83 limited Edition MOJAVE # plated 465 of 500