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Post by Okiyota on Jan 22, 2008 8:21:15 GMT -8
Last weekend it got a little too cold for the Trekker. A buddy and I were staying in Wolf Creek, snowboarding, and I had to park the Trekker outside at the hotel we were staying in. Apparently my 50/50 mix of antifreeze/water was too much water and not enough antifreeze. We came out in the morning and started the truck to let it warm up, the spigot bearing in the water pump must have frozen over night because when we started it the pulley off the water pump was dancing around and it was spraying coolant everywhere. We turned it off and called my wife and had her come get us with a trailer (5 hr drive)! Instead of just replacing the waterpump I decided to swap engines, makes sense right!!??!! The donor truck is a 94 2wd with a 22RE and 5 spd with around 165,000 miles and i know it runs well because it was my DD for a while before i started chopping it up to build a desert race truck out of. So now the race truck is getting a 2JZGTE from a 98 Toyota Supra (got delivered last week) and the Trekker is getting the 22RE. We started on it yesterday and got both engines pulled and all of the wiring harness from the 94 labled. We started to drop the RE in the Trekker so it could at least sit in there but found that the oil pan was only about 1/2" from the diff at ride hight!! So we pulled the RE back out of the Trekker and now i need to swap the oil pans. Next step is to swap the pans, then set the RE in the Trekker again and get everything bolted into place, run the vacum lines and all the misc. things....then the fun begins....the wiring harness. We are going to completely strip the wiring harness from the Trekker, start from scratch and re-wire only the necessities. I'll try to keep this thread updated with pics and some of the things we find that may be helpful, but it definitely wont be a daily thing. The next time we'll even be able to work on it will be this coming Sunday. Anyhow here are some pics from where we got to last night... The original 22R, 255,000 miles and still running just fine, minus the water pump... The donor engine, 22RE 165,000 miles and runs fine. So much easier to pull with no front clip... 22R on its way out and an empty Trekker bay... Pulling the donor and the empty donor bay... Donor engine on the cherry picker and the original 22R on the tire in the floor in the background... Thats all for now, i'll keep adding to this post as we make progress. -Oki PS... 22R for sale, needs water pump and oil pan/sump ;D
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Post by Slacker on Jan 22, 2008 20:09:30 GMT -8
Very cool .. I did this swap before .. but I used the earlier "analoge " EFI .. therefore I didnt have to worry about the speed sensor , but still had the diagnostic ports and "check engine" light .. most guys just dont worry about it .. what are you going to do ?
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Post by Okiyota on Jan 23, 2008 6:10:14 GMT -8
Marlin Crawler VSS We are now producing our very own Vechicle Speed Sensor (VSS). This 3-wire, 4-pluse magnetic pulse amplifier will convert ANY Toyota vehicle with a standard 22x1.50 mechanical speedometer drive to an electronic speedometer system. Features a standard Toyota VSS Plug for your convience. The Applications are unlimited, converting both 4WD and 2WD 22x1.50 mechanical speedometer setups to electronic 3-wire, 4-pulse speedometer setups. Now installing a Tacoma Engine into a Hilux or Land Cruiser is a snap! Works on both Gear and Chain Drive Transfercases! For 1992-95 V6 Applications, when converting to a Gear Drive T/Case Setup, the only previous option was to use a 1992-95 Factory Toyota 4cyl 5-speed Gear Drive T/Case VSS, that sells for $210. The New Marlin Crawler VSS saves $150 on a 1992-95 V6 Transfercase Conversion. To Install in a gear drive t/case: ---- Use a cable VSS from a 1979-92 gear drive t/case. To Install in a chain drive t/case: ---- Use a cable VSS from a 1988-91 chain drive t/case. MC-VSS, Electronic Vehicle Speed Sensor, $59 The one with the red circle is the one i need ;D However, should that not work, I do have a complete early "analog" EFI setup I could throw on.
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Post by Slacker on Jan 23, 2008 7:12:01 GMT -8
ahhh .. very cool , I didnt know that even existed .
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Post by Okiyota on Jan 28, 2008 7:07:02 GMT -8
Alright, i dont have any more pics right now, but got the oil pans and the sumps switched over (uneventful) and dropped the RE in the Trekker (eventful).
We found that the motor mounts on the 94 2wd 22RE are in fact different than the originals on the Trekker engine. It is a very slight difference, when one hole is lined up, the other is off by no more than 1/4". So we just leaned the engine over just as much as needed to drop the mounts off the engine side and swapped them with the originals from the 22R, took 5 minutes and everything fits now.
We also found that the manifold/downpipe connection may be different. The studs all lined up and I was able to get the nuts on without a problem, however when tightened down (to the point where i was afraid they were going to snap) there is still a 1/2" gap between the 22RE manifold (stock) and the Trekkers downpipe. Probably just going to order a header now and be done with it cause i know the nuts shouldnt even be as tight as they are and there is still the gap.
Last thing we did this weekend was drop the gas tank and tried to fit an EFI 2nd gen pickup tank in its place...way too big. I read somewhere a long time ago there is a stock yota tank that will swap in with the 1st gens and bolt right up, i thought it was a 2nd gen tank, but obviously it isnt the truck tank, maybe its the 4runner tank. Anyone know??? Oh well, what we did to remedy this was decide to use the stock tank (unless we can find out for sure which tank directly swaps in). The problem with the stock tank (and fuel lines in general) is the diameter of the lines. The carb'ed lines are all 3/16" and in order to run the EFI set up you need to have 5/16" at least, otherwise you will starve the engine for fuel and it will run too lean. We pulled the pickup/return/vent cap off the tank and drilled the pickup tube out, trying to drill at the same angle the original tube was placed. We then took a long straight section of the original fuel lines from the 94 truck and cut a section long enough to replace the pickup tube. We sandblasted the new 5/16" tube and then bent it to perfectly match the original contours of the 22R pickup tube. We then slid it in the new larger hole on the cap at the original angle and tig welded it into place. It turned out great and i think it will work awesome! I left the return line stock, i dont foresee a problem with having the return and vent lines the original 3/16" size.
Now I just need to find an in-line fuel pump. I was told a fuel pump from an 83 Celica and a 92 Ford F250 were the kind that i needed so we went to Checkers and they actually had them both in stock...neither will work, the Celica pump is an in-tank pump and the F250 pump has the proper fittings on one side but the other uses a barb and that wont work. So if anyone knows of an in-line fuel pump with at least 40psi that will have the proper fittings feel free to speak up!! Once we have the pump we'll set the tank back in place and make all new fuel lines to get it all plumbed in.
Thats all for now, i'll come back and edit this post and put some of the pics up when i pull them off the camera.
-Oki
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Post by Slacker on Jan 28, 2008 17:32:00 GMT -8
always a few things huh ?
dont know of any "bolt up" fuel tanks , but the fuel pump I do know a wee bit about ..
you'll need more then 40lbs .. I believe you need a pump with at least 70 lbs of pressure . at the moment I dont remember the "exteral" pump # I used .. i'll have to do some digging .
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Post by Okiyota on Jan 29, 2008 6:26:32 GMT -8
Awesome, thanks for the info Slacker. Let me know if you can find that number.
-Oki
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Post by b4runner on Jan 29, 2008 15:30:37 GMT -8
I will be following this one closely, If my accountant (AKA: My wife releases the $$$$) i am too looking for a donor truck/engine for EFI. Figure that the conversion would be easier with everything in place. Oki-I like the frame mounted stands for getting your truck around, very innovative and allows for max workspace. I also like how you removed the doors so you can still use your bender: ;D
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Post by Slacker on Jan 29, 2008 17:18:58 GMT -8
so , pump # is ..... Carter , P5000 , with an inline filter , before the pump . worked Awesome , but much lowder then I would like .
I would encourage you to do a "in-tank" conversion .. will take some doing , custom work ... but I think you would be much happier with the out come .
If you wanna make some "extra" cash ... I would think it would be a good seller .. I would do it myself , but i'm already booked up for 6 mos. ;D
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Post by Okiyota on Jan 30, 2008 6:49:10 GMT -8
b4runner: thanks, the stands took like 20 minutes to make all 4 and work awesome, the truck is easy to move around even by yourself. I've even moved it from one shop to another on a trailor with the casters. The doors are off because i am getting ready to start on the roll cage, the bender is just sitting there, its not mounted to that spot.
Slacker: Thanks for the part # !! I actually prefer a louder pump, lets me know when it stops working ;D. I wouldnt mind figuring out an in-tank conversion but for right now i just need to get the truck running and driving, maybe afterwards i'll look into building something.
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Post by Okiyota on Jan 30, 2008 13:39:25 GMT -8
Ordered the fuel pump today, $123, will be here tomorrow. After work tomorrow i'm going to mount it and the tank and then get some measurements for the fuel lines and make some new 5/16" ones. I'll probably just pull the stock lines out and match as much of that as possible. I'll try and throw some of the pics up after tomorrow.
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Post by Slacker on Jan 30, 2008 17:47:13 GMT -8
very cool .
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Post by Okiyota on Feb 15, 2008 12:20:33 GMT -8
Alright, I havent made much progress lately, I've been busy out-processing the Air Force and trying to find a real job!! Anyhow here are a few pics that I had not posted yet... The 22RE is in the truck now, bolted to the "modified" motor mounts, bell housing and tranny are connected again, all the main stuff is on, just the detail work now... From day one the Trekker has had some pretty weak brakes, there was always a good pedal feel initially but if sitting at a stop light or holding the brakes for more than a few seconds the pedal would lose pressure and the truck would start to roll, you had to continually pump the pedal when stopped. So I went ahead and pulled the master cylinder off the 94 and put it on the Trekker, was really straight forward and everything fit just fine, hopefully it will fix the problems... Here is the new 5/16" pick up line in the tank. Like I explained earlier, we took the cap off, drilled the old line out, bent the new line to match the old contours and TIG welded it in place. We left the line a little long on the outside so we could get the correct measurements once we run all the new 5/16" line, cut it where it needs to be, flare it and hook it all up... Here is the new Carter (PN# P5000) fuel pump and everthing that came with it, based off of Slacker's reccmmendation this one should do the trick, I'll get some pics of it all mounted on Monday hopefully (along with the whole fuel system)... I was able to use all of the stock 22RE fittings (engine side) for the power sterring pump and was able to keep the Trekker pump and original lines, everything went together like it came from the factory so that was a HUGE bonus, I thought I was going to have to get creative with the lines from the 94 originally... This is just the heater control valve, nothing fancy but mine has never worked, it was always stuck on luke warm (this winter has been a rather chilly one) so we pulled it off and found that the lower arm was bent, we straightened it out and then decided to brace it with a small piece of metal to keep it from bending again considering it has now been weakend by being bent back and forth. We just cut a small rectangular piece of 1/8" plate and TIG welded it to the valve arm to brace it, should work fine from here on out, the red arrow is pointing to the piece we welded on... Just a shot of the Doug Thorley header we are going to use. We ran into a small exhaust issue when dropping the RE in. The stock manifold line up perfectly and bolted straight to the down pipe that was on the 22R originaly, but for some reason there is a gap between the two about 1/2" wide, so I'm just going to throw the header on and make a new down pipe to connect it to the cat... And now the fun begins...the wiring!! Went ahead and pulled all the dash out so I can get to the original wiring harness, it was acutally a lot quicker and easier than any other truck I have had to remove the interior on, all the screws and bolts were there and they were even the original correct ones, all of them!... Thats all I have for now, I'm off of work on Monday, so I'm going to run to Whistler Bearing and pick up some Braided SS 5/16" fuel line and try to get all of that buttoned up that morning/afternoon. Once thats finished all that is left is the wiring, that is going to take a little more time but hopefully I can get a good start on it Monday. I'll be sure to snap some more pics and throw them up here. -Oki
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Post by Okiyota on Feb 18, 2008 21:56:08 GMT -8
Today was pretty eventfull, I didnt get as much as I had hoped done, but none the less made some progress. Went to Whistler Bearing this morning and had them make some new fuel line for me, ended up going with some Aeroquip 3/8's High Pressure (250psi) line, its not SS, but it should do the trick just fine. I had them "build" a compression fitting for the pickup tube on the tank so I wouldnt have to flare that line then connected 24" of the fuel line with a fitting on the other end to adapt the fuel pump to. I then had him make another line that was 60" long with a fitting on one end for the other side of the fuel pump and had him braze the original fuel filter banjo bolt onto the other end (from the chassis connection of the filter). The bad part about this deal was the time it took him to make all this, he wasnt able to do it right away and said he would call me when it was done, ended up taking a little over 3 hrs for him to call me back, so that killed a good part of my day because it was 35 miles from my house and I didnt want to drive back and forth so I just had to kill some time in town. All said and done the setup cost $93, and will work just fine. Like i said the short side was 24" which was just the right amount to be able to run the line from the pickup tube on the tank over the crossmember and mount the pump on the side of the frame, and the long side was 60" which was actually a little longer than needed so now i need to tuck some of the extra hose somewhere. Here's a picture of the whole setup (with the fuel pump on the long side), sure doesnt look like $93 worth of anything does it!! As for the pickup and return tubes on the tank, the new pickup tube, as long as it was, it was hitting the floor board when trying to put the tank back in so we had to cut it short and bend it down as close as we could get it to the top of the tank yet still have room for the new fittings and hose to not rub or lay against anything. We also had to bend the return tube straight (you can see how it was bent under the pickup in the previous pictures) so we could bend the pickup tube lower. Once we got the two of them straight and lowered the fittings/hose cleared and the tubes no longer hit the floor board. New tubes bent and lowered, new compression fitting on the pickup tube... Nothing to crazy here, just a shot of the new line/pump in place on the frame rail. We were able to remove one of the clips holding the brake lines to the frame and bolt the fuel pump stap into that hole, so now both the pump and the brake lines are held to the frame and we didnt have to make and new holes. The e-brake cable barely touches the pump, but it is the rubber "accordian" cover of the e-bake cable touching the foam "sock" on the pump so I dont foresee any problems there... Here is a shot looking down into the engine bay, you can see how the new line is run from the filter, I'm still going to attach it to the frame in one more place right where you can see it sticking off the frame in the pic. All of the excess fuel hose is snaked up under the passenger seat along the floorboard and framerail, should be up out of harms way there... Once everything was hooked up we took the electrical plug from the fuel pump and held the two exposed wire ends onto the battery of the truck...the pump primed, fuel circulated and we could hear it going all the way back into the tank from the return line, after we tightned everything!! At first we didnt have everything tight, so it leaked from the outlet of the fuel pump, tightned that it leaked from the line that runs into the top of the intake manifold, tightned that it leaked from the banjo fitting on the front of the filter!!! So really, I am kinda glad we left it ALL loose (like rookies!!) because we were able to verify that fuel was getting to every part of the system....yeah thats it, we did it on purpose ;D Thats all for today, I'm super stoked, we have fuel!!! All thats left is... new intake manifold gasket (thanks Jay ), charcoal canister (getting custom with that, I'll give details when we do it), radiator (ordered a blinged out aluminum one, should be here tomorrow), intake (gotta find somewhere to mount the MAF and airfilter, the battery is right in the OG spot, gotta plan though), wiring harness, and then go through and double check/tighten everything! I know, it seems big, but the only real time consuming part will be the harness. More updates to follow as time allows. -Oki
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Post by msrwerks on Feb 19, 2008 4:47:28 GMT -8
very cool!!! this is really great information for anyone wanting to convert the older carb'ed trucks to the newer EFI. it will definitely help with keeping them on the road longer
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